Ayodhya—Righteous
Rule
It
is the quest for a homeland that brings
me back to eastern UP— the mud huts,
haystacks, wheat and mustard fields, a landscape I grew up with. By now the wheat has been cut, fields lie fallow
waiting for rain but green mango kaeries ripen in orchards. But like elsewhere in UP,
aspirations are fast changing and the erstwhile Kingdom of Kosala is no
exception. Cyber media game shows, glitzy
mobile phones, aah nachle—dance and
song TV competitions-- enthrall Ayodha’s
youth at the 2Star Ram Shyam Hotel, the
only one here. Come evening and no
bhajan-kirtan for them, instead it’s
Big Boss on a communal TV. Scoffs a local scribe—no budding Tulsidas either,
poetry like news is bought and sold.
Some
weeks
ago instead of the
anti-corruption rallies, this Hindi heartland witnessed a mega Congress
Party rally at Basti, followed by the
BJP one in Faizabad. Thousands
of loaded cars sponsored by prospective MLA-- ticket seekers poured in from neighbouring districts in a
show of strength. But Ayodhya’s locals shrugged nonchalantly. Simply no one
took notice of Ravi Shankar Prasad and Nitin Gadkari thundering on Ram
Mandir; a non-issue they said. Though there is no denying BJP--MLA Lallu’s Singh popularity here. His people to people
contact is exceptional says Yatin Misra, prince-ling of erstwhile Ayodhya state, of
`vidhayak’ Lallu. But imagine
claiming if ` mandir’ is built he will light up Ayodhya like a dulhan?
Is there any mention of
development? Of civic amenities? Beyond
widening of roads, has any change taken place? That’s why beyond
Ayodhya, its other political parties that hold sway.
Though
Ayodhya’s history is well documented in Valmiki’s Ramayana, it is in the
Atharvaveda that its antiquity is first
mentioned. The Ikshvaku kings of
Suryavanshi descent, make up Lord Rama’s
kingdom of Kosala divided by the sacred river Saryu with Sravasti the capital of the north and Ayodhya,
the south. Though Ram holds sway
here, it is not the hi-fi pilgrim
but the lower middle class that comes in droves, from distant Karnataka,
Maharashtra, Andhra. Some walk barefoot to the heavily guarded Ram Janam Bhumi Nyas. The police guards and the heavy rolls of barbed wire do not daunt
them.
But
having `Ram’s Janam bhumi’ here has been
pernicious for Ayodhya, says activist
Gopal Krishna, yet another writ
petitioner of the Ram Janam Bhumi Nyas controversy, also reminding me that the
name Avadh adopted by the latter Nawabs came from Ayodhya. A thousand temples, ten
thousand —there is no record of how many, or revenue earned, or taxes paid. Arre
yahan koi documentation
parampara se nahin hain, adds
Mr R.C. Gaur of the Ayodhya Shodh Sansthan, a research institute established in 1985 under the then Chief
Minister Veer Bahadur Singh. No heritage laws apply here, no
Antiquities or Treasure Acts. The mahants are secretive, they don’t like
to reveal their sources of wealth, and no one dare annoy the all powerful
mahants.
But
says the sane voice of Kaushal Kishore Das `Phalahari’ Baba, of all of us here who wear the `sadhu- make
up’, who is a real sadhu? Locals gossip, today religion is a
part of a money- laundering
racket for Marvari seths, sometimes `rajneti’. In this town of contradictions, religiosity is mixed
with extreme pragmatism. Mandir has
become a `khilona’, a toy, continues
`Phalahari’ Baba, just another face for the desire for power. If
the Mandir- Masjid controversy ends will NRI Hindus or Middle- east Muslims send money.
Think, who stands to lose? All I
wonder is-- why is science
progressing but humanity
regressing, why are powerful
states fraught with paranoia, are unselfconfident and unstable, he continues?
Surely mandir-masjid doesn’t offer a solution to this?
The
outburst of Hashim Ansari, the oldest litigant in the Ayodhya title suits, is
more impulsive. A Muslim is afraid if he
loses `Masjid’ he loses his relevance in this nation. Suppose we say, okay, no mosque then how do we know
there won’t be a Mathura or some new
demand won’t arise. Peeda hai, Dukh hai, dard hai, usko leke kahan
jaye hum? Is this the price of democracy? As long as there is money
in conflict—this will continue. So how can there be an amicable
settlement.
Think, 25 lakhs spent each day guarding Ram
Janam bhumi Nyas. In a mere 2.77 acres
you have 14 PAC and 7 CRPF batallions, numerous Dog Squads, 50 darogas and what
have you. BJP walas wish Ram Mayya to
rule, instead Ram lalla is under lock
and key, and the looters are running around enjoying life, he rants, while the
Police nationwide has become daku. Will those who shout slogans of Hindutva alone be allowed to live? Will they drive
Muslims out into the Arabian sea—where will we go—look at Iraq, Egypt, Libya, Pakistan? No state can thrive on the basis of
religion—literature and history show this.
All agree Pakistan is a failed state. —Agar masjid lene say aman aaye ga-- then take the masjid. But remember too it was in Akbar’s
darbar that Tulsidas wrote the Ramayana.
We
have to look at the nation, says Hashim. Ek
hi formula hai--Mohabbat se jeeyo. Or what legacy do we
leave the youth-- Youth do not think anymore.
How can they? If a father sells his house to educate his son and then he
needs another 5-10 lakhs to bribe his son’s way to a job, how and what will his
son think? We supply cow meat, arhar daal,
but do not eat it. Foreigners eat
better basmati rice than us. Why?
Because the nation needs dollars to buy arms. Where are those dollars
going? Do they come back to us so we can
live in a better way?
Meanwhile
Asif Ahmad, City President Congress Party talks about the success at the Basti
Rally on 24th April, 2011. We sent 32 cars, he said. We showed them
our strength. All our leaders were there, Salman, Punia ji, Beni babu, etc. But
did you tell them about your organizational weaknesses, I ask. Arre who listens….Politics is of the
moment—we win on the lehar, the wave—Jo le gaya so ley gaya—5 saal ke leye raja
hain voh! All the rest remains. Then
why talk of vikas, development? The voter is not educated enough to think like
that.
Says
Phalahari Baba, people are foolish. If I am ready to be made a fool of, why
should the man not make a fool of me? The politician does it and wins the vote.
Who is angry with the system—no one. The
temple trusts are only angry as to who
got more. The women employed to perform kirtan –bhajan at one temple are lured away by another if offered a better make-up kit, Yatin laughs,
they argue whether it is Ponds or Lakme. And when a popular TV show picks up
people it is for their controversial sound byte—and a nonentity becomes a
celebrity—who cares if no one knows him here! No one wants to know what Ayodhya
really is—says Yatin. Rumour has it his
father, the Raja joined the BSP, to save
his property from the hands of `Madam’
There
is no Ayodhya anymore, it is a figment of the mind, says `Phalahari’ Baba. Open drains are filthy, garbage dumps rot,
the populace full of hustlers and cynics.
So
what did Ayodhya once stand for, Ram
Rajya? Do you see any righteous rule
here?
Meanwhile,
the Ayodhya Shodh Sansthan, a research Institute set up in 1985, continues to show the Ram lila enacted by a troupe from Barabanki
for 15 days before the next arrives to
a rapt lower middle-class audience. With
them is a kubdi mai who has braved the
heat, the poor transport, bad footwear, and come all the way. Is it belief that
sustains, belief that as long as they
hear the recitation of Tulsidas’s chaupais there is still hope that righteous rule, in
this crime-infested state might still prevail.